Here are some things that I did to insulate my dwelling in preparation for Winter. This is the best time to perform an analysis of a dwelling since any breaches will be readily apparent without the use of any tools. However, for under $15 a heat detecting thermometer may be purchased. Also, I use Rakuten (Ebates) whenever possible for any on-line purchases. Sometimes your credit card company will offer the same style of savings. These remedies are applicable to any dwelling whether you be renting or otherwise. I am just a regular lady with half a brain and whole lotta wherewithal. I may not use the appropriate terms but I will do my best to convey what it is that I have done, how and to what. If I can do these things, you can too. You will save a whole lotta money and conserve heat this Winter (and a.c. in the Summer). You are paying an arm and a leg for utilities, might as well not pay to heat and cool the neighborhood.
My Windows are old, but the glass is of that wonderful German quality, thick and about as good insulating as glass gets. So, it is the areas around the edge of the glass that meet with the "casing" and "trim" that I addressed. The first thing I went to work on was to caulk all of the windows from the interior (easiest for me to access). Before getting started on that I had to sure up one of the front windows that had a bit of "give" at the top. I noticed previously that when lightly pressing on it, it "gave" a bit. I used marine adhesive lol. Fantastic! Then I caulked all around the interior windows with acoustic caulk. Acoustic caulk is twice as expensive as regular caulk BUT it will last longer because it remains "flexible" longer and does not harden and crack like standard caulk. Plus, it is designed to address sound transmission. Rule of thumb, sound transmission means air breaches. For $19.99, I picked up Green Glue Acoustical Caulk (the sealant, very important). There is also a compound that I also used for a different leg of my project. So, the interior window caulking project is finished.
I still noticed sound transmission because I have super-human hearing, ahahhaha. Where could it be coming from? The windows did not account for the extent of the cold and air breach(es). I got down on the floor and checked out the baseboards. Bingo! Took off the baseboards and found in some places cavernous gaps where cold air was flowing in, especially around the heating vents. I stuck my hand up the wall and could feel the bottom of the wall insulation that did not meet with the floor. That may be normal, idk but at least I confirmed that the wall insulation was really good. It filled the entire cavity but stopped about an inch or so from the floor where again in spots the cold air had no barrier. Idk if this is recommended or not but clearly below the floor that I could see where the joists are is not an area exposed to weather. So, ngl I stuffed those caverns (lol) with cellulose, densely packing it. $14 from Lowes. Immediate difference. I used the acoustic sealant in areas where there were seams and acoustic compound for small gaps. I have done the two existing exterior walls in the living area. Tremendous improvement!
Cellulose seems better than fiberglass by the way for air and sound and I will be opting for this product wherever it may be effective to use. Remember, air and sound go hand and hand.
I also sured-up the area around the front door "encasement". You can use felt or foam insulation strips with the adhesive backing in areas around the door where it closes. I used the foam strips on the area of the hinges (less than $5), and also on some windows to insulate the areas where the windows close. I have crank out windows. I used cellulose instead of the foam spray stuff to fill in the space around the front door that did not have foam already (about a 1 1/4 space) because the foam stuff would be wasted if I didn't use the entire can at that time. I have an attic space. I have to do a full assessment but off hand it looks like I have pretty good insulation up there. I do see some dusty areas on the fiberglass insulation which indicates air/heat transmission through the ceiling drywall. That is a big project for me. I will get to later. I also have wall plate insulation gaskets to install in every outlet and switch ($11 for 20). Don't forget door sweeps. Cheap and effective.
Before I get to the attic probably in another post, I am going to address the windows further. I do not have storm windows. I am going to make storm windows. What I am going to do is make (interior) window inserts. You can also make exterior storm windows/inserts. For my application, it is easier to do the interior inserts, no ladder necessary, just fabricate and install the inserts.
Here's how I am going to accomplish this. I picked up 1 x 2 x 8 furring strips ($1.68 ea.), weather stripping with self-adhesive (33 ft for $10), and Flex-O-Glass ($37 for 3 ft x 25 ft.), 3M double sided tape ($5.39 for 20 ft). Very simple project. Measure the interior "sill" (encasement), leave a bit of space (1/4" or so) for your weather stripping. Cut the furring strips to the measurements best appropriate for your windows. "Appropriate" because you want to have as much space between your window and your window insert as you can. For instance, it appears that I can create an approximately 3" plus space. That space in and of itself will function as insulation. M'kay? If you don't have the option of installing the window insert into the window "encasement" itself, you can affix the window insert on top of the window. Meaning, on the outside surface area of the window. Just remember that we are working on the interior of the windows. I aim for you to visualize what I am conveying to you.
Nail your furring strips together. Top furring strip nailed perpendicularly at right angles to the horizontal furring strips and then nail the bottom furring strip to the perpendicular furring strips. Do any painting at this time. Apply double sided tape all around the edges of one side of the frame that you have just made. Then, apply the Flex-O-Glass sheeting neatly to the sticky side of the frame starting with one corner of the Flex-O-Glass at the top, working over to the other side and then work down the frame adhering the plastic sheeting (Flex-O-Glass). Apply weather stripping to the outside surface of the frame. Voila, you're finished!
All you have to do now is install your new window insert/storm window. Just press the insert into the window "encasement". If you have trouble because of the unique qualities of your window, you can also affix the window insert with finishing nails I'd guess. Affix the window insert right on top of your window if appropriate. Just make sure that your edges are not breaching air. Make sure that the edges are sealed. You can use caulk but that is a more so permanent application. You can use Flex-O-Glass directly on the outside of windows creating an exterior storm window. Same concept as the interior window inserts except that the edges must be sealed. You can use double sided tape to install the Flex-O-Glass just as with the interior version making a removable insert. and use weather tape around the edges. You can trim it out or not. You can also use this application for porches, garage windows, or for suring up any
Anyway, I have to get to work on making my inserts, but I would like to hear from you regarding any ideas that you have and/or solutions that you have come up with on this subject.
Σχόλια